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The Ariel By Lynn Olson
Since speakers are electroacoustic transducers and antennas at the same time,
they have complex behaviour that cannot be reduced to simple graphs or curves.
Even the most sophisticated instrumentation only hints at what's really going
on, so careful listening is still an essential part of designing a speaker
system. I use a combination of listening to music and pink-noise,
and measuring the speaker with several different MLSSA
test modes, such as impulse response, group delay vs. frequency, frequency
response at different angles, and the cumulative decay spectra. Careful listening to pink-noise is a very sensitive way to discover resonant
colorations (more so than music, and much more repeatable), but it can fail to
detect notches in the spectrum unless they are very sharp and deep. So you have
to be careful when you tune a system so you don't inadvertently create broad
depressions. In addition, pink-noise testing tells you nothing about dynamic
qualities, so you can end up with speakers that are smooth and inoffensive but
don't sparkle and sing on real music. Still, pink-noise testing lets you quickly
detect and remove resonant colorations; just alter the crossover and add or
remove cabinet damping until the speaker really begins to sound like an actual
waterfall. MLSSA, FFT, LMS, or 1/3 octave measurements provide an essential cross-check
to make sure that you're not subtly skewing the spectrum as your ear gradually
adapts to the sound of pink-noise. (Adaptation is a serious problem with
pink-noise testing. Listening and tweaking sessions should be kept under 10
minutes so your mental reference point doesn't begin to shift.) All tests have their blind spots, so cross-checking is very important,
especially when you listen to music. You may have to choose between a sense of
verve and directness and a tuning that is relaxed and neutral; this is your
call. The drivers in the Ariel are exceptionally flat, which makes the system
tuning easier. If the drivers had large peaks like metal-dome tweeters, Kevlar,
or carbon-fiber drivers, the tuning process becomes far more difficult, and
requires a lot of experience in knowing what to equalize and what to leave
alone. In practice, subjective tuning results in a 3-way round of testing, using
pink-noise, measurements, and music listening. This is the sequence I use:
Go back to Step 2 until you feel genuinely satisfied that the whole system
has reached its full potential. For example, crossover on this Web page is
actually the 15th go-round using this multi-step procedure above. So don't
expect perfection the first time around, and don't expect music-listening or
measurement sessions to do it all. It takes both.
The best imaging and spatial qualities result with 50 to 55 degree spacing
between the left and right speakers, the tweeters placed towards the inside, and
both speakers aimed at a point about 1 to 2 feet in front of the listener. In
effect, this forms an equilateral triangle that ends about a foot short of your
nose. When the speakers are correctly aimed, you will see the large-radius edge
appear slightly closer to you than the small-radius edge, with an inch or two of
large-radius sidewall showing. Visualize a sphere with a 1 metre radius extending in all directions outward
from the tweeter; keep this imaginary sphere free of obstructions of any kind.
If your room is big and uncluttered enough to provide a free radius of 1.5
metres, so much the better. The less junk there is in the immediate vicinity of
the speaker, the better it will sound. (No, various room-damping tricks won't
help if the free-space criteria can't be met. You can't fool Mother Nature!) If you can set them up like this, and have a pretty good system, you'll hear
a smooth and even halo of sound extending about 2-3 feet outside the speaker
pair and about 5-10 feet in height. If you're lucky enough to have top-quality
directly-heated triode amps, these figures double, providing spatial qualities
approaching the best and most natural multichannel systems. By contrast, if the speakers are too far apart, or not toed-in enough, the
center-fill will be weak and "phasey," and the intermediate
center-left and center-right localizations will tend to jump towards the
speaker. If the speakers are too close together, or toed-in excessively, the
stereo image will compress, lose its natural quality of airiness, and off-axis
images will disappear. When the toe-in and spacing are correct, you will hear a perfectly even
distribution of sound and a well-proportioned impression of space on nearly all
stereo recordings. You should be able to move left-to-right over several feet
and not have the image shimmer, wander, or collapse back into the speakers. If
it does, you'll experience listening fatigue just from muscular tension trying
to keep your head in the "sweet spot." Unfortunately, most systems I see in homes, dealerships, and the CES have the
speakers aimed with zero toe-in and spaced too close together. This gives the
worst of both worlds: narrow, unstable images that collapse off-axis,
intermittent depth perception, and a very limited impression of the spatial
texture of the original recording. Since many people, including audiophiles and reviewers, have never
heard stereo as it's intended to be heard, try a simple experiment with a
boom-box that has detachable speakers. Go ahead, put the thing on a kitchen
table, space the speakers 60 degrees apart with yourself at the tip of an
equilateral triangle, and aim the speakers at a point about a foot in front of
you. For once, don't listen to the awful sound quality; just pay attention to
the stereo impression. The point of this simple experiment is to demonstrate that good, in fact,
excellent stereo can be delivered by the crudest and most basic systems. There's
no reason you can't have this same experience with much larger systems in your
living room.
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mercoledì 02 luglio 2014 |
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